ERDEM | Autumn Winter 2026

 

Erdem’s Autumn Winter 26 collection marks the twentieth

anniversary of the independent house. The collection is called The

Imaginary Conversation, and it pays homage to the voices and stories

of Erdem’s protagonists over two decades of dialogue expression in

fashion.

The collection brings characters together from the past twenty years,

with their looks and garments re-contextualised and re-imagined.

Here we see the gowns and coats from Debo and Maria Callas,

Madame Yvonde and Radclyffe Hall, in a different guise. They have

been renewed with cut or silhouette or material or motif, remixed.

As the conversation has continued, so the garment has evolved with

each character over time.

As with each of Erdem’s collections, we are held in the tension of

a particular moment; a sense of metamorphosis hangs in the air,

caught between merging and emerging. We witness Erdem’s women

and the clothes they embodied variously draped and layered. Pieces

are patchworked and garments are held up against each other. The

troupe brings Adele Astaire and Marianne North back before us;

we are reminded of a piece of music written by Duke Ellington for

Queen and the ceremonial poignancy of the Velazquez infanta.

Familiar tropes are inverted or undone as echoes of the past with a

different volume in the present. It is as if she has taken everything

out of her wardrobe to recreate something new.

There is a beauty to her madness. A bridal dress from Erdem’s first

show in 2006 today returns today, with a voluminous gathering of

skirts that feels simultaneously riotous and defiant; uplifting in

every sense. It is a poetic statement about Erdem’s past and future;

as much a celebration of what has been as what is yet to come. The

conversation continues.

CREDITS

 

Styling—Marie-Amélie Sauvé

Casting—Ben Grimes

Hair—Eugene Souleiman for Kevin Murphy

Makeup—Fara Homidi for Fara Homidi Beauty

Nails—Joely Frain for Glossify

Skincare—SkinCeuticals

Millinery —Noel Stewart

Production—OBO

Music—Lukas Heerich

Photography—Jason Lloyd Evans

Video—InDigital